In short: the key types of necklace chains are anchor, curb, figaro, Singapore, snake, rolo, box, ball, foxtail and king chain. For everyday wear, compact styles such as curb and anchor chains work best. For a gemstone pendant, choose a chain that fits through the bail and can carry the weight of the stone — save the most delicate styles for small, light pendants.
The same silver chain can look understated or very bold — it all depends on how its links are joined. Types of necklace chains differ in the shape and arrangement of their links, and therefore in shine, flexibility, durability and the way the chain lies on the neck. Below we describe the most common chain styles, compare them in a table and explain how to match a chain to a stone, an occasion and your style.
The way the links are joined decides whether a chain is soft and fluid or compact, high-shine or subdued.
The anchor chain, also known as a cable chain, is one of the oldest and most popular styles. It’s made of oval links, each turned 90 degrees relative to the previous one — just like a ship’s anchor chain, which gives it its name. It’s light, versatile and easy to pair with a pendant, which is why it’s often the first choice for everyday wear.
A curb chain is made of oval links that are twisted and flattened so they lie flat and fit snugly together. It sits smoothly on the skin and stands up well to daily wear — it’s one of the most durable chain styles. In a thin version it can handle a small stone; a wider one looks good on its own. The curb chain is also a classic men’s chain.
The figaro is sometimes described as a variation of the anchor or curb chain: several short links alternate with one elongated link, most often in a 3 + 1 pattern. This gives the figaro chain a distinct rhythm and makes it more decorative than the classic styles. It looks good on its own — around the neck or as a bracelet.
A Singapore chain is made of small, spirally twisted links. It’s very flexible and shimmers with every movement, because the twisted surfaces reflect light at different angles. It’s a light, feminine style, pretty with or without a small stone. A thin version kinks easily, though.
A snake chain looks like a flexible, smooth tube made of tightly fitted segments that resemble snakeskin. It has an even shine, rarely tangles and lets a pendant slide freely. On the other hand, it’s sensitive to bending — don’t coil it tightly or tie it in a knot, because kinks are hard to remove.
Durability ratings are approximate — in practice, a lot also depends on the width of the chain and the quality of the clasp.
| Type | Link structure | Look | Durability | With a pendant |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anchor | alternately turned 90° | classic, light | good | yes, versatile |
| Curb | flattened, lying close together | smooth, compact | very good | yes, even a heavier one |
| Figaro | short links plus one elongated | rhythmic | good | usually worn without |
| Singapore | spirally twisted | high shine | medium, kinks easily | with a small, light one |
| Snake | smooth, flexible tube | even shine | medium, prone to kinks | yes, slides freely |
| Rolo | even, round | simple, bold | good | yes |
| Box | square | geometric | good | yes |
| King | many interwoven links | heavy, three-dimensional | very good | usually worn without |
This division is a loose one. Women often reach for lighter, shinier styles such as the snake chain, worn with or without a stone. Men’s chain styles are wider and more compact: curb, figaro, box. A men’s silver chain can be worn on its own or with a medal or a cross. You’ll find more ideas for men in our article on silver jewelry for men.
There’s no single answer to which chain style is the most fashionable — trends change every season, and the classics never go out of style. Layering, though, is popular — wearing several chains at once:
You can also mix metal colors — we explain how to mix silver and gold in one outfit in a separate guide.
The most durable styles are compact ones in which the links have a large contact surface: curb, anchor and rolo chains. Twisted and smooth styles such as Singapore and snake chains are best treated with care — they’re easier to kink or snag on a sweater. A fine, dense foxtail, in turn, is harder to repair once it breaks.
Durability depends on more than the chain style:
Take a broken or kinked chain to a jeweler — most damage can be repaired, although smooth styles are harder to fix.
A chain and a pendant need to match both visually and technically. Before you buy, check four things.
The bail is the loop or folded strip at the top of a pendant. The chain must pass through it easily — ideally, so should the clasp. If you’re buying a chain for a stone pendant you already own, measure the bail opening with a ruler or caliper and compare it with the chain width given in millimeters. Leave a little room so the pendant can slide freely. If the lobster clasp won’t fit through the bail, thread the pendant on from the end with the smaller ring.
The larger and heavier the stone, the stronger the chain it needs. A small cubic zirconia or a little cabochon looks good on a light, slender style. A large cabochon in an openwork setting — lapis lazuli, agate or amber, for example — is better hung on a thicker, compact chain: an anchor chain about 1.5 mm wide or a curb chain. A chain that’s too delicate for a heavy stone stretches and twists sooner, and the stone keeps flipping to face backward.
Paired with a pendant, the chain should neither overpower it nor disappear next to it. Choose a slender style for a small, delicate setting and a wider one for a large, bold piece, so the two are in balance. A rich, oxidized ornament looks good on a calm, smooth chain, while a simple, shiny setting gains from a twisted style.
Length decides where the stone falls on your neckline. As a rough guide: 40–45 cm (16–18 in) sits around the collarbones, 50 cm (20 in) a few centimeters lower, and 60–70 cm (24–28 in) looks good over a sweater, turtleneck or high-neck dress. A long 70 cm (28 in) chain also works for a larger pendant worn over clothing. We explain how to match length to your neckline in our guide on how to choose a necklace for your neckline.
Silver darkens over time — a natural reaction with sulfur compounds from the air, sweat and cosmetics, whichever type of chain you choose. A few habits will slow it down:
We describe how to bring back the shine of tarnished jewelry in our article on why silver tarnishes.
In our store you’ll find sterling silver chains in four versions: snake, Singapore, a 70 cm (28 in) anchor chain 1.5 mm wide, and a heavier chain. All of them are made of 925 sterling silver. Before you buy, check the chain length and width in the product description. See the full range in our sterling silver chains category.
Pair your chain with a pendant from our family workshop in Rumia, Poland, which has been making 925 sterling silver jewelry since 1984. Our pendants are cast and hand-finished, and we set the stones by hand. The range includes lapis lazuli, amethyst, reconstructed coral, turquoise, reconstructed malachite, rose quartz, agate and amber — whether a stone is natural, reconstructed or synthetic is stated in each product description. Browse our silver pendants with stones, gemstone jewelry and jewelry for men. A chain with a stone pendant is also a simple gift idea — you’ll find more inspiration in our guide on what jewelry to buy as a gift.
Anchor and curb chains are the most common choices — they’re durable and suit most outfits. Shiny twisted styles and the smooth snake chain are popular too, and among the heavier options, chunky three-dimensional chains. You’ll find all the styles compared in the table above.
For everyday wear, compact styles work best, above all curb and rolo chains. Width and a solid clasp matter too — even a durable style won’t carry a heavy pendant in a very delicate version.
Check that the chain fits through the pendant’s bail, and match its width to the weight of the stone. Choose a compact, wider style for a large cabochon; a slender chain is enough for a small stone.
Men most often choose a wider, compact curb chain — it looks good on its own or with a simple medal. If you want a bolder look, consider a heavy, three-dimensional style.
Smooth, compact styles such as snake and box chains tangle the least. Store fine chains with loose links separately and fastened.
Yes — every silver chain tarnishes over time, whatever the style. You can slow this down by storing it in a closed pouch and taking it off before bathing, and remove tarnish with a silver polishing cloth.
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